14
Aug

Rattlesnake Master (Eryngium yuccifolium)

This is a 4 year old plant in my garden. The base of the plant is a mound of lance-shaped leaves similar to daylilies and irises. The flower stems are quite tall and sturdy – I have never had to stake any of my Rattlesnake Masters. As tall as this plant is, it does not block the view of anything around it. You can look right through the tall stems and flower heads for a good view of anything planted behind it.

Rattlesnake Master:

The flowers are greenish-white balls which will turn a lighter brown as the seed heads are formed. Both flowers and seed heads are attractive..

– Full to part sun.
– Well-drained soil is a must.  Will tolerate drought.
– 3-4 ft. tall and spread is 12-18”.
– Blooms July and August.  Greenish-white balls.
– Self-seeds.  Attractive brown seed heads.
– No fertilizer is necessary.
– Does not transplant well.
– To deadhead, cut flower stalk to the ground.
– Does not require support.
– Deer and rabbits avoid them.
– Generally pest/disease free.

Where to plant it?  The most important thing about choosing a site for Rattlesnake Master is the soil must be well-drained – if too wet, the plant will rot.

This is the actual flower – it does not burst into further bloom. It will keep this tidy ball shape throughout the blooming period and as a seed head.  Provides some unusual texture.

A sunny site with average soil is best.  This is a rather tall plant and not overly showy so it will look good, and be rather impressive, massed together at the back of a garden.  It can also be interplanted with other perennials.  In my garden, I have used it both ways and it looks good everywhere I have planted it.  I do allow the seedheads to form as I think they are attractive and I like their light brown color and knobby texture.  I keep these seed head stalks in place until the following spring and in March, I cut them at ground level.  By leaving them through the winter, I allow the plant to complete its natural cycle and to self-seed.  However, this is your choice.  You can deadhead them right after they finish blooming and before the seedheads form, you can deadhead them in fall, or you can deadhead them in early spring as I do.  Regardless of when you deadhead, the plant will do well.

The leaves of Rattlesnake Master have ‘hairs’ at the edge. These are not thorns and they are not sharp.  The tip of each leaf can be more sharp.

Rattlesnake Master will self-seed, but it is not prolific.  I have had it in my garden about five years and in that time, have only had about six volunteer plants.  Watch for these volunteers in May.  If you find some, this is a good time to transplant them to where you would like them – or to give them away to friends.  Once these plants are established (mid-summer), they become increasingly difficult to transplant.  Their taproot is long – even on a young plant – and it is easily broken.  Once broken, the plant almost always dies.

Companion plants:   Keep in mind this plant can have two different appearances.  In bloom, the stalks are quite tall giving this plant a lot of height.  If you deadhead the flower stalks as the flowers fade – before seed-heads form, what remains is an attractive mound of lance-shaped leaves similar to daylilies or irises.  Instead of the 4ft. flower stalks, the mound of leaves is closer to 2 feet tall.  This is a big difference in height and appearance.  If you are deadheading right after bloom, Rattlesnake Master can be planted with most other perennials – just keep in mind the watering requirements.  These plants prefer a drier soil so do not plant with perennials that like a wet soil.  In my garden, I have Rattlesnake Master planted with Gray-headed Coneflowers (Ratibida pinnata) and close to Purple Coneflowers (Echinacea purpurea).  If you have a large, hot, dry area of full sun, try planting Rattlesnake Master with one Yucca (Yucca) and add Prickly Pear Cactus (Opuntia humifusa) and/or Sedum (Hylotelephium) such as ‘Autumn Joy’.  After planting, mulch the entire bed, and after the plants are established in 4-6 weeks, you should not have to water again unless there is a prolonged drought when gray water from your kitchen can be used.

Rattlesnake Master’s botanical name is Eryngium yuccifolium.  ‘yuccifolium’ means ‘yucca-leaved’ and if you take a close look at Rattlesnake Master you will see the leaves do resemble the larger leaves of Yucca.  Like Yucca leaves, the leaves of Rattlesnake Master are long, stiff, narrow, and bluish-green  The edges of the leaves of Rattlesnake Master have evenly spaced hairs or bristles and the entire plant is stiffer than most perennials.  The tip of each leaf can be a bit sharp.  This plant got its common name because Native Americans used the root as an antidote to rattlesnake venom.